Seal and insulate together
Spray Foam Insulation in Battle Creek, MI
A sprayed layer that stops air and adds R-value, used where it beats everything else.
- Free estimates after we measure on site
- Each area priced with its material, depth and R-value
- Leaks, damp wood and old wiring pointed out before we insulate
What Spray Foam Does That Batts Cannot
Spray Foam Insulation is sprayed as a liquid, expands within seconds and cures into a solid layer stuck to whatever it touches. Because it fills every crack and seam, it stops air movement as well as slowing heat. Fiberglass batts and loose fill slow heat but let air pass through, and in older Battle Creek houses moving air is often the bigger problem: cold air pulled in at the rim joist and warm air escaping through the attic floor.
Closed cell
Closed-cell foam is dense and hard once cured, at about R-5 to R-7 per inch according to HomeGuide. At normal thickness it slows vapor and does not take on water. We use it on rim joists and sills, poured and block foundation walls, crawl space walls, roof decks with no attic, the floor over a vented crawl space and the steel skin of pole barns and shops. It also adds some stiffness to the surface it is sprayed on.
Open cell
Open-cell foam is spongy and lighter, at about R-3.5 to R-3.8 per inch. It expands a great deal and fills irregular cavities, so it works well in open stud walls, between floors for sound and under roof decks when an attic is being brought inside the house. Since it lets vapor through, it needs a vapor control layer on the warm side in this climate and should not be sprayed directly against cold concrete or steel.
Before and after the wiring
Foam goes in after the electrician and plumber are finished and the work has been inspected. Once a cavity is foamed, running a new wire or moving a pipe means digging it out. On remodels and additions, we schedule after rough-in inspections.
When foam is not the answer
We will tell you when another material is the better buy. An open attic floor is usually cheaper to seal and blow in to depth. Closed walls in a finished house are usually filled with dense-pack cellulose through small holes. And foam is never a fix for a leak; roof, plumbing and foundation water problems have to be solved first.
The day of the job
We cover floors and belongings, set up fans to ventilate, and spray in passes to the thickness on the estimate. HomeGuide advises staying out of the house for at least 24 hours while foam cures and airs out. In occupied or storage spaces, foam usually needs a thermal or ignition barrier depending on the product and how the space is used, and we include that in the estimate when it is needed.
Call (269) 256-1613 or book a visit and we will show you where foam makes sense in your house. Get a free estimate
What This Covers
Common places we spray foam.
Rim joists and sills
Closed cell around the top of the foundation, the top source of basement drafts.
Attic rooflines
Foam under the roof deck when an attic holds ducts or becomes living space.
Crawl spaces
Closed cell on walls, or under the floor if the crawl space stays vented.
Additions and remodels
Open or closed cell in open stud walls after rough-in.
Bonus rooms
Floors over garages and kneewalls beside attic space.
Barns and shops
Closed cell on steel to insulate and stop condensation.

Published Spray Foam Insulation Costs
| Job | Range and source |
|---|---|
| Spray foam, installed | $1.50 to $5.00 per sq ft (HomeGuide) |
| Open-cell / closed-cell | $1.50 to $3.50 / $3.00 to $5.00 per sq ft (HomeGuide) |
| About 1,000 sq ft | $1,500 to $5,000 (HomeGuide); $3,150 to $7,500 existing home (Fixr) |
| Existing walls / new construction | $3.15 to $7.50 / $2.75 to $6.50 per sq ft (Fixr) |
| All exterior walls | $4,000 to $10,000 (HomeGuide) |
| Whole house | $8,000 to $20,000 (HomeGuide); $10,000 to $30,000 (Fixr) |
| Typical job minimum | $1,000 to $2,000+ (HomeGuide) |
These are national ranges from HomeGuide (2026) and Fixr (2025), included so you have a reference point. Foam type, thickness, access, prep and minimums shift the total. We measure first; the figure on your written estimate is the one you are charged.
How It Works
1. Inspection
We measure each space and check for leaks, damp wood and wiring.
2. Itemized estimate
Foam type, depth, R-value and price for every area.
3. Spray
Masking, ventilation, then foam in passes to the written depth.
4. Finish
Required barriers applied, trimmings cleaned up, final walk-through.

Why Choose Us for Spray Foam Insulation
Honest about alternatives
If blown-in or sealing does it for less, we say so.
Depth on paper
Every area lists thickness and R-value.
Dry first
We will not foam over a leak or wet wood.
Spray Foam Insulation Questions
Who manufactures spray foam insulation?
Several chemical companies make two-part spray foam systems, and installers buy from them through distributors. What matters more for you is the type (open or closed cell), the thickness and whether it is mixed and applied correctly, so we name the product type and depth on your estimate.
Is spray foam safe once it cures?
Once fully cured and ventilated, foam is inert. That is why HomeGuide advises staying out for at least 24 hours after spraying, and why we ventilate during the job.
How long does a spray foam job take?
A rim joist is usually a few hours to a day. A pole barn or roofline can take a day or two depending on size and thickness.
Can spray foam go over old insulation?
No. Foam needs to stick to clean framing, concrete or steel. Old batts and debris are removed first.

Spray Foam Insulation Service Areas
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Get a Spray Foam Insulation Estimate
Free spray foam estimates in Battle Creek.