Frequently Asked Questions

The pros: it insulates and air seals in one layer, closed cell adds R-5 to R-7 per inch and resists moisture, and it reaches spots batts cannot. The cons: it costs more than blown-in, the house must be empty while it cures, and it is hard to remove or change later. We use it where the pros clearly win.

After. Wiring, plumbing and any blocking should be finished and inspected first, because foam makes later changes slow and messy.

Closed-cell foam, at about R-5 to R-7 per inch in HomeGuide's figures, compared with roughly R-3.5 to R-3.8 for open cell. Total R-value depends on thickness, which we write on the estimate.

Calhoun County is in Climate Zone 5A, where the Department of Energy recommends R-60 for an uninsulated attic, or adding R-49 over 3 to 4 inches. We seal the attic floor first and then bring it up to depth.

A low bid is only a good deal if it covers the same areas, thickness and prep. Ask each contractor for depth and R-value per area. Thin foam, skipped prep or foam sprayed on a wet surface costs more in the end.

Yes. Closed-cell foam on steel roofs and walls insulates the building and stops the condensation that drips on equipment and stored goods.

Several chemical companies make two-part spray foam systems, and installers buy from them through distributors. What matters more for you is the type (open or closed cell), the thickness and whether it is mixed and applied correctly, so we name the product type and depth on your estimate.

Once fully cured and ventilated, foam is inert. That is why HomeGuide advises staying out for at least 24 hours after spraying, and why we ventilate during the job.

A rim joist is usually a few hours to a day. A pole barn or roofline can take a day or two depending on size and thickness.

No. Foam needs to stick to clean framing, concrete or steel. Old batts and debris are removed first.

It removes most of the warm air that melts roof snow, which is the main cause. Roof shape and ventilation also matter, and we check both.

For an open attic floor, sealing plus blown-in is usually the better value. Foam under the roof deck fits attics with ductwork, a furnace or planned living space.

Not if it is dry and clean. It comes out if it is wet, moldy, contaminated or in the way of sealing.

Most are done in one to two days, including sealing.

Two to three inches of closed cell is common, giving about R-10 to R-21. We write the depth on your estimate.

Yes. Foam has to stick to the wood to seal it, and batts often hide moisture or mice.

Its current chart lists $50 for insulating all accessible rim joist areas for combined or gas customers.

Yes, once the foam has cured and the area has aired out, usually the next day.

Yes. Closed-cell foam on the steel keeps warm, moist air off the cold metal, which is what causes the dripping.

Thicker than in a storage building. We size it to how you heat and use the space and write the depth on the estimate.

Yes, though old barns with gaps everywhere may be better served by insulating a framed room inside than the whole shell. We will tell you which makes sense.

If people work in the space, usually yes, with a thermal or ignition barrier depending on the product. Agricultural buildings can be treated differently, and we explain what applies.

HomeGuide lists $1.00 to $2.80 per square foot and attics at $900 to $3,600; Fixr puts a typical job at $3,000 to $7,000. We give you a written price after measuring.

Loose fill settles a little, which is why we blow to a settled depth. Dense-packed walls are packed tightly enough to resist settling.

Yes. We drill small holes, fill the cavity and patch the holes.

Cellulose packs more R-value per inch and slows air better; fiberglass is lighter and settles less. We suggest one based on your house.

Only if it is wet, moldy, contaminated or blocking air sealing. Dry, clean insulation can stay.

Usually a day to vacuum out, then sealing and new insulation.

Yes. We take down failed fiberglass and can replace it with foam on the steel.

Get it tested before anyone disturbs it. If it contains asbestos, a licensed abatement contractor has to remove it.